Dahlias benefit from a drip hose — less water is wasted and it gets straight to the roots.

Also consider pinching plants when they reach about 12 inches tall. This reduces the terminal bud and encourages branching, which leads to more flowers.

At planting, dig a hole big enough to fit the tuber and make sure the growing points (eyes) are facing up. Avoid fertilizing at this time, as dahlias prefer not to get a lot of nitrogen.

DAHLIA BASICS

Zones:

Generally, winter-hardy in zones 7-10. Tubers are able to remain in the soil. In colder areas tubers can be sunk up to be stored until winter, and then planted again in spring after the danger of frost has gone. (See below for storage suggestions.)

Height/Spread:

One to six feet tall and up three feet in width, depending on the variety. Border dahlias can be 15 to 20 inches in height.

Exposure:

Full sun

Soil:

Organically rich, well-balanced as well-drained.

Water:

Medium

Color:

Varieties consist of shades of pink, red and orange. white, and yellow.

Bloom Time:

From July to September.

PLANTING DAHLIAS

Based on Frances Palmer, well-known potter and dahlia lover the ideal time to plant for tubers is in May. Here are her tips for planters:

Set up grow cages (tomato cages are ideal) into the soil, and put in 2-3 stakes next to them to provide support.
Make the trench: For new or single tubers: Place them in an extremely shallow hole, approximately. 3 inches wide, with the newly formed buds facing upwards. For larger tubers: Place in a deeper hole, ensuring they are about. 3 inches beneath the surface. Cover the dirt with a gentle layer.
Label the cage to make it easier to identify.
Don’t overwater since there should be enough moisture in the soil at this season. Insufficient watering causes tubers to turn brown.
The first leaves should appear through the surface within two weeks.

Indoors, dahlias are starting to bloom:

If you reside in a colder climate and are looking to begin your gardening journey tubers can be planted in just 6 weeks, before transferring them to the garden. Place them in pots filled with the potting soil and give them ample light and water. When the temperature of your garden is 60 degrees, the time to move your dahlias.

Planting dahlias in containers:

The dahlias with a low growth rate or dwarf varieties are the best to grow in pots. Make sure to use a pot that has drainage holes and a high quality soil mix. At first, only lightly cover the tuber with soil. it is possible to add more when the plant’s roots grow

CARE & STORAGE OF TUBERS

Pinching:

If the first leaf set is 8-12 inches tall You can remove the middle buds to encourage the stems to develop and produce more flowers. This process is sometimes referred to as topping.

Fertilizing:

bone meal can be used 2 to 3 times in June and October to promote flowering. In the case that your soil appears in good condition, this might not be necessary in any way. Apply an all-purpose fertilizer prior to the time of planting to help get your plants started.

Staking:

As the dahlias develop and the stems expand, gently encourage them to remain inside the cage to provide support. Garden twine is able to be tied to the outside of the cage for extra support.

Disbudding:

If you’re looking for larger, stronger and longer stems as well as larger flowers, you’ll need to take out the two pea-sized buds along the center flower. Certain varieties could be beneficial to take some buds further into the plant.

Deadheading:

Deadheading keeps your plants clean and will allow them to keep blooming. Many gardeners have reported that when they frequently deadhead their dahlias they flower until they get their first frost. Make sure to not remove new buds. They are round. The flowers that have been discarded are triangular or cone-shaped shape. Cut your flower slightly higher than the point where the flower’s stem meets the main branch. Once the flower is removed new buds will grow at this point and you’ll see more blooms within a couple of weeks.

Tubers that are stored and dug:

If you reside in a region in which you’ll have the tubers to be stored during the winter, here’s some useful tips:

1-Keep it in the garage or basement in a cool place that can reach 40 degrees however, not below the freezing point.

2-After the first frost the flowers and stems will instantly begin to wilt. Place them in the soil for about a week after several more powerful frosts have taken place.

3-Remove support cages or stakes.

4-Find the outside of the tubers using pitchforks. The bigger the plant, the bigger the tuber, but do not worry if the tubers break apart or are damaged in the digging process, this won’t harm the plant.

5-Take off the dead leaves about 2 inches higher than the tuber bundle to provide you with something to hold onto and then gently shake off all dirt you can.

6-Put a tag on the stem cut to mark it as a gift for someone else.

7-A few inches of peat-moss or wood shavings at the inside of an enormous cardboard box.

8-Give the tubers one final shake to get rid of any dried dirt and place them into the box, with larger tubers in the bottom. About halfway full, you can add the second layer of packing, and additional tubers. Fill the container completely with materials for storage, shake it to settle and then top off with additional storage material. Fold flaps over to seal.